On June 26, Sophie Lavaud became the first French woman, of all genders, to have climbed the 14 summits above 8,000 meters on the planet. And the fourth woman of all time to accomplish such a feat. At 55, his prowess has gone around the world. But the one who also has Swiss and Canadian nationalities has been discreet. After a vacation (still in the Himalayas) in July, she agreed to give her first interviews and respond to RFI.
5 mins
RFI: Sophie Lavaud, did you expect so much impact after your exploit at the end of June?
Sophie Lavaud : It was completely unexpected. Because it was really a very personal project, I was not at all in a race for records or anything. But it’s still very nice everything that happens to me (laughs).
How did you feel this past June 26 at 9:15 am, when you arrive at the top of this mythical Nanga Parbat, at 8,126 meters above sea level?
With hypoxia, you don’t think much. Hypoxia is a particularity of very high altitude, when you are lacking in oxygen. And above all, we had very complicated conditions, with snow and fog. When we get to the top, we still pull out the cameras to take a few pictures, but it was quick. We are talking about a few minutes at the top finally. What is very special is that the last high camp is at 6,800 meters. There are then 1,400 meters of vertical drop to reach the summit, which is absolutely enormous at such an altitude. We finally end with what we call “mixed” terrain, that is to say rocks, ice and snow, to arrive on a very small platform, on which we cannot be very numerous to hold. There were several of us on the expedition, including our Sherpas and, of course, Dawa Sangay Sherpa, who has accompanied me for years. What was a great joy for me was that all seven of us reached the top at the same time. But it’s still a hostile place, so you don’t have to hang around, and above all you have to go down.
• CONGRATULATIONS to our amazing team of climbers from Seven Summit Treks for achieving an extraordinary feat of climbing “14 Peaks” this season.
• We are elated to announce that five exceptional individuals have successfully conquered all 14 Peaks – the mountains above 8000… pic.twitter.com/p0ObRCVZRF
— Seven Summit Treks 🇳🇵 (@sst8848) August 2, 2023
How did this passion for high peaks come to you? Almost twenty years ago, you climbed your first Mont-Blanc, and almost ten years ago, your first 8000.
That’s it ! It’s a long road. It’s a passion that starts in the Alps. But it’s true that I was quickly drawn to the summits with the aim of always going a little higher. Then it’s a good excuse to travel. As the Alps stop at 4,800 meters, I explored the world. First 5,000, then 6,000, 7,000… When you tackle 8,000, you have to have time. Climbing a 4000 in the Alps takes two days. Climbing an 8,000 in the Himalayas takes two months. Everest was the first summit I organized for. It was from there that I really decided to try this slightly crazy adventure. Knowing that it’s something I’ve kept to myself for a long time.
You don’t define yourself as a full-fledged athlete. However, the high mountain is high level sport?
Yes, you can’t get to 8,000 meters overnight, that’s clear. It’s a lot of work.
This is dangerous work! Many French people before you have tried this 8000 adventure and have not come out unscathed. Mountain stories are full of rescue operations. You come out without the slightest frostbite. What’s your secret?
There is no a miraculous recipe. It’s eleven years of work, 22 expeditions, without frostbite, without injury and without evacuation. There is a form of natural caution and learning to renounce. Twenty-two expeditions for 14 summits means that it clearly doesn’t work every time. But there is no magic secret.
We get to know you on RFI, the radio station of La Francophonie. You have precisely three French-speaking nationalities: French, Swiss and Canadian…
I have all three countries in my heart! The origin of my parents is very French, but I have lived longer in Switzerland than in France in my life. And Canada remains a naturalization passport. There are fewer origins, but it remains a magical country just as much.
You surely know the Norwegian Kristin Harila well who, like you, has just climbed the 14 peaks. Not in eleven years, but in six months! What do you think ?
I know Kristin well! We passed each other on several summits. She has just finished her challenge of a few months, and I am very admiring of what she has accomplished. It’s an incredible physical performance! But it’s a very different way to approach these great Himalayan peaks. Me, I like to take my time.
Finally, what are your plans? Are you going to take a vacation in the mountains?
Holidays, I don’t think so, because it’s a passion! For me, it’s not a “job”. It’s true that the expedition world is definitely part of my life now, and I’m not going to stop climbing. Maybe I’ll close the ledger of 8,000, because it’s still a dangerous world. But the world is vast! There are many other things to see, do and discover.
Read alsoMountaineering: Sophie Lavaud, first Frenchwoman to climb the fourteen peaks over 8,000m