Champagne, counter briefs: Le Rocher chooses Carbon, a revolving restaurant at Mumm

Champagne counter briefs Le Rocher chooses Carbon a revolving restaurant

Le Rocher chooses Carbon

The Monegasque red diamond is Alexandre Méa’s four-leaf clover… The adventure began in Monte-Carlo, in 2017, when the flamboyant CEO of Champagne Carbon became the official supplier to Formula 1 podiums. , for two years, for the small house of Champillon, premier cru of the Montagne de Reims. For the young man, fifth generation of winegrowers, there is no question of resting on his vines. A partnership with Bugatti in 2018 led to the creation of the “Black Bottle”, a nebuchadnezzar (fifteen liters of bubbles from the 2000 vintage) nestled in a sculptural carbon fiber case reproducing the mythical “Black Car”. Like the car, a single copy is produced. Then, last March, the Lamborghini manufacturer joined forces with the Champenois for its 60th anniversary. Finally, during a recent evening in the Principality, in the presence of Albert II of Monaco, the launch of the Cuvée Royale Monte-Carlo was announced, in collaboration with Monaco Brands — a blanc de blancs grand cru 2015, selected during a blind tasting. The little prince of Champillon never ceases to amaze. R.A.

Mmm, that’s yum

The GH Mumm house opens its world to gastronomy with a concept inspired by artist residencies: the Table des Chefs, a revolving restaurant invested every three months by a new talent. It is the young Mallory Gabsi (ex-candidate of Top chef) who has just set the table first in the private mansion of Reims for three menus and a brunch. The capital’s new star (his eponymous establishment is located in the 17th arrondissement) confronts his plural and inventive cuisine, nourished by Belgian and Tunisian inspirations, with GH Mumm cuvées – with his sommelier Andréa Harel with food and bubbles pairings. But it is a specialist and long-time friend of the house founded in 1827 who signs the permanent champagne and wine list: the best sommelier in the world 2023 Raimonds Tomsons has the key to the oenotheque to access old vintages of the Grand Cordon. L.D.

From Thursday evening to Monday noon. From €55 to €85, food and wine pairing supplement: from €95 to €210. Reservation on Mumm.com

first rosé in “age account” (€155),

/ © MAISON GOSSET

Two houses, two intentions: purity and intensity

Without artifice and practically without wood, the new Brut Nature cuvée from Barons de Rothschild (€58) is the authentic expression of its Champagne terroir. Minerality and delicacy combine with depth in the mouth. The simplicity of its craft packaging reflects the strict specifications: “the most accomplished definition of purity”.

In a radically different spirit, the Gosset house unveils its first rosé in “age account” (€155), an innovative principle – inspired by the world of spirits – initiated in 2016 on non-vintage champagnes, but subject to prolonged maturation. The wines entering into the composition of this cuvée with a coppery hue have been left on the lees for at least twelve years – for the youngest. This singular nectar, of great vinous intensity with notes of strawberry jam, dried fig, blood orange and spices, will go without flinching with the exoticism of a lacquered duck or a tajine. L.D.

lep-life-health-03