Petit Versailles en Beaujolais, built between 1674 and 1676 by the royal architect Jules Hardouin-Mansart, the Château de La Chaize and its hundred hectares of Brouilly spent three centuries in the family of the descendants of François de La Chaize d’Aix . Sold in 2017 to a businessman from Lyon, the venerable estate now aspires to the nobility of the terroir. The millions and the enthusiasm of Christophe Gruy, leader of the Maïa industrial group, fueled a spectacular wine renaissance, which inspired other patrons: Jean-Loup Rogé, founder of Implid, acquired the Château de Poncié, in Fleurie, in 2020, and the hotelier Jean-Claude Lavorel, that of Ravatys (another Brouilly) in 2022.
Restoring Beaujolais to its rightful place in French vineyards
The ambition of a Christophe Gruy resonates with the resistance of a few figures in the region (the Desvignes family in the lead, in Morgon) against the devalued Gamay, misguided in an old policy of low-cost primeurs and unbridled volumes. The path appears difficult, like the steep hillsides. However, the way is traced to go up the slope: a new generation of workers is abandoning chemicals for HVE, Terra Vitis or organic certifications. It aspires to restore Beaujolais to its rightful place in the French vineyard, with reductions in yield, vinification by parcel, long aging and claimed localities, in support of premier cru classification files with the Institut of Origin and Quality (INAO). An exemplary upmarket policy, applied with zeal at La Chaize. And more: the domain invested with a mission has embarked on an “unprecedented energy and environmental transition to achieve carbon neutrality”.
The conversion to organic farming of the 99 hectares of the chateau, and 43 additional hectares acquired in Côte-de-Brouilly, Fleurie and Morgon, was carried out at full speed under the impetus of consultant Pierre-Jean Villa, reference winemaker in the Rhone. Half of the vineyard was uprooted and replanted with quality plant material.
In the 120-metre long cellar, listed as a historic monument, modernity has entered the vats in satin stainless steel and state-of-the-art brushed concrete. Under the vaults of the cellar, covered with pink granite sand (the famous Beaujolais saprolite), a battery of new casks has replaced century-old antiques – transformed into parquet. Christophe Gruy has built a second bottling and storage cellar, buried to preserve the heritage integrity of the site. A huge geothermal power plant regulates the energy consumption of the wineries.
An ecological vision
The vision of ecology of Boris Gruy, the director and nephew of the owner, does not stop at the AB label. It continues in the demanding techniques of grassing and mulching, in the management of the water cycle and the sequestration of carbon, with purchases of forest and massive plantations. Not to mention 100% electric tractors by 2030. And a solar power plant to refuel…
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THE GOURMANDISE of Brouilly Lieu-dit “Combiliaty” 2020
From a plot on shallow granite. Aged for twenty months in concrete vats. Basket of small berries: blueberries, blackcurrants, currants, cranberries… A delicacy. 22 €
THE SUBTLETY of the Fleurie Lieu-dit “Madonna” 2020
A plot of 1.9 hectares on the hillside. Fifteen months of aging in tuns. Scarlet colour, infusion of red fruits, vine peach, dried rose, long aging. 28 €.
THE INTENSITY of the Côte-de-Brouilly Lieu-dit “brulhie” 2020
Terroir of blue stones, sunny plot (“burnt”) facing south / south-west. Dark color, supple tannins, smoky nose, minerality, black fruits and spices. A strong character. €36.
THE ELEGANCE of Brouilly Lieu-dit “The Chair” Monopoly 2020
Young vines replanted in the renovated enclosure adjoining the chateau. 100% destemmed grapes. Shimmering fragrances of lily and violet, notes of black cherries, sunny personality. €36.
THE TEMPERANCE of Brouilly Lieu-dit “Towards the Pines” Monopoly 2020
This parcel-based cuvée stays twenty months in tuns. Silky tannins, aromatic fullness, eucalyptus, black cherry, chocolate, salivating finish. 28 €.
THE CLASS of the flowered Lieu-dit “The Chapel of the Woods” 2020
A wine with pronounced Burgundian accents! Carmine color, floral aromas, spices (pepper), red fruits (raspberry). A rare elegance and finesse. €36.
All the grapes from Château de La Chaize are harvested by hand in boxes of 13 kilos; the vinifications are by plot (23 cadastral localities), indigenous yeasts and gentle extraction (reassembly and racking, without punching down).