Like every year, L’Express analyzed and tasted the plethora of offerings from large retailers, wine merchants and specialized sites to decipher the trends wine fairs autumn. Our selection.
It’s not easy for local wine merchants to make themselves heard during the wine fair period, as those in large-scale distribution monopolize the attention of consumers, who often wait for this period to stock up on bottles in the three colors. However, they have essential assets: expertise and an appreciable capacity for advice for the novice buyer.
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The Nicolas house in the lead
With 10% of the French market and 765 stores in France and abroad (11 countries), the historic Nicolas house – founded in 1822 and today owned by the Castel Group – is undoubtedly the main player in the sector. Its fall catalog presents 66 references, half of which are committed to an eco-responsible approach, without however specifying how many come from organic farming.
Like every year, Virginie Morvan, the purchasing director of the renowned Parisian wine merchant Lavinia, has unearthed new gems for the September meeting: more than 200 references in total, including 20% for less than €15 and 100 organic or biodynamic.
Some department stores in the capital also display attractive offers during wine fairs. Like the fantastic selection concocted by Hugues Forget, the cellar master of the Grande Epicerie du Bon Marché: 134 reds and 56 whites, from €5.90 per IGP Coteaux-de-bessilles Domaine Felines Jourdan, in the Languedoc, at €850 for a legendary Château Lafite-Rothchild 2015. Likewise, the Cave du Lafayette Gourmet takes advantage of the expertise and fabulous stocks of the Bordeaux trading house Duclot, to offer a prestigious catalog. Which can be found enlarged in the Chateaunet Malakoff store, on the outskirts of Paris.
Finally, our selection takes a trip to the vineyards of Italy, with Eataly’s Enoteca, in the Marais (and on eataly.fr), illustrated by 30 vintages from La Botte (from €8.93).
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The 2023 edition marks the 50th anniversary of the bacchanalian gatherings of mass distribution. An unmissable event since in one month, 140 million bottles will pass from gondolas to consumers’ shopping carts. Since its creation by E. Leclerc, all the big brands, wine merchants but also e-commerce sites have taken up the event, the success of which remains extraordinary and without equivalent elsewhere in the world. But to build up your cellar at low prices, purchasing en primeur and auctions can be just as wise. To find your way around, L’Express reveals its instructions and gives its advice. Find our entire file here. (Alcohol abuse is dangerous for your health. Consume in moderation).