Organic champagnes are becoming rare. Above all, they constitute a sort of preserve for winegrowers, some of whom have become stars of the bubble. Some houses nevertheless take the steep paths of nature. Among the nominees of the year, Mandois, in Pierry, obtained its certification, like Tribaut-Schloesser, in the Brunet valley. A new step for the family business, already HVE and VDC certified. At its head, Sébastien and Valentin want to keep these labels to take into account the impact of all activity. “A neglected dimension in the organic framework”, underline the two brothers, keen to ultimately achieve carbon neutrality. A goal that Ludovic du Plessis has also set at Telmont, the Damery house that he manages. “An obvious philosophy of life” for this father of three who races around on his Brompton bike. “A simple return to peasant common sense, which protects the nourishing earth, develops the intrapreneur. 90% of our 25 hectare vineyard is in conversion or certified – only a small part in Aube is currently not concerned. On the supply side (55 hectares), half of our delivery people are already convinced. We will help the others to take the plunge.” Assistance to applicants and bonus per kilo of “green” grapes at stake.
Motivated employees
This is one of the main obstacles to the organic offer among handling traders, for whom sourcing from certified winegrowers is vital. However, they struggle to find grapes on this disputed market. Some are fortunate to have their own resources to meet their needs, like Lanson and the 16 hectares of his Domaine de La Malmaison. This formidable research and experimentation laboratory allows the red cross brand to release 100,000 bottles of Green Bio-Organic per year. No less than eight motivated employees pamper chardonnay, pinot noir and meunier biodynamically. “The team is really involved,” confirms Marion Pauchard, operations manager. A chance, because the extra work that organic farming causes, notably more visits to the vines, discourages many. “No one wants to work on Sunday,” observes Julien Duval-Leroy. The beautiful house of Vertus, which he manages, was the first to launch into organic champagne, in 1998. “But we had to take into account the lack of appetite of the consumer”, regrets Julien. Its AB vintage is stagnating at its original level: 30,000 bottles, half of which are exported. This lack of enthusiasm among enthusiasts for the green bubble constitutes a major obstacle to its development. “We will not increase, the power of the brand takes precedence,” explains Julien.
So, without any real commercial issue, are these champagnes at least better than their higher-end brothers? With 70,000 quilles of the Triple B vintage – made entirely from purchased grapes – Cédric Thiébaut, the cellar master of Besserat de Bellefon, notes real effects on clear wines (before the mousse): “The aromas are different, a greater depth is expressed. The acidity often turns out to be higher, undoubtedly the result of the organic amendment of the soils practiced organically.” The observation is particularly acute in light of global warming, which weighs on juice tension. “The incidence diminishes with breeding”, however tempers Cédric; but the trail remains to be followed.
Some heavyweights in the sector took the turn in 2003
Laurent Fedou has been using it for a long time. The cellar master of Canard-Duchêne, a heavyweight in organic Champagne – 150,000 to 200,000 bottles per year (30% export) – took the turn after the takeover by the Thiénot group in 2003. “He We had to restore the image of the brand, be bold, dare!” says the oenologist. He persuaded Bruno Michel, a pioneer winegrower in agroecology, to sell him a few grapes, before converting a seven-hectare plot, registered ZE 181, which gives its name to the vintage, which is very present in mass distribution. Today he vinifies around 25 hectares organically.
In Aube, in the heart of the Côte des Bar, Drappier could well be the first house to only offer organic vintages. The conclusion of a long-standing commitment from the field, already accredited “carbon neutral”, which Michel Drappier and his children are continuing. They complete the conversion of the 37 hectares of the vineyard and supplies. In his organic wines, Michel discerns “more freshness, more fruit, a wild but elegant touch, like a bouquet of wild flowers”. His father, André, agrees: “Modern wines that have the scent of yesteryear.” At 97 years old, the patriarch is strong: we can trust him.
Made from three Champagne grape varieties (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Meunier) and lightly dosed, this wine with its invigorating freshness reveals tasty fruitiness. Beautiful bitters in the end. €37.90
Purchased by Champagne Lombard in 2004, this pocket structure has become its full-scale experimental laboratory for the development of organic products. €32.90
Symbol of the environmental commitment of the nugget of Urville, in the Côte des Bar (Aube), the cuvée pays homage to the neighboring Cistercian abbey of Clairvaux. €41.80
Inspired by nature, the Reims house combines the color green with the red cross, its distinctive sign. A balance of freshness, fruitiness and elegance where pinot noir dominates. €51
Telmont Earth Reserve
Standard bearer of the ecological ambitions of the small house of Damery which is on the rise, this hand-crafted cuvée shines in the glass. Delicious notes of candied lemon. €68
Nicolas Feuillatte Organic
The largest cooperative group highlights the work of its members engaged in an organic approach. An extra-brut with notes of raspberry and pomegranate. €39
Triple B by Besserat de Bellefon 2015
Organic signature of the Epernay house, this blend has the particularity of not having undergone malolactic fermentation. A raw natural gastronomy. €57
Leclerc-Briant Reserve Raw
The pioneer of biodynamics in Champagne offers pure, vinous and gourmet champagnes. As proven by the energy of this lightly dosed crude with iodized accents. €42
Mandois Blanc de Blancs 2018
The estate has just certified its 37 hectares. A wine forged in a fundamentally winemaking spirit from Chardonnay from fifty-year-old vines in conversion. €38
This vintage embodies the ethics and know-how of the house of Vertus. Partial vinification in vats and oak barrels delivers a pure and crystalline expression. €44
Chassenay d’Arce Audacity 2014
“The organic cultivation method gives this vintage its own identity,” explains the cellar master of the dynamic Aube cooperative, which has 7.3 certified hectares. €42.30
Tribaut-Schloesser Brunet Valley White Chardonnay
The family house of Romery is launching its first organic productions, like this blanc de vins with a silky texture and full of freshness. Delicious brioche notes. €39
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