It’s not one, but three appointments that have taken place since the end of spring-summer 2024 fashion week. Moschino, Chloé and Alexander McQueen have just announced the names of their new DAs.
On October 3, 2023, the Fashion Week in Paris. Four weeks of fashion shows began in New York on September 8, and punctuated by several announcements. If the departure of Jeremy Scottat the head of Moschino for ten years, had been effective since last March and that of Gabriela Hearstwho officiated at Chloe since December 2020, had been known since July, the break between Sarah Burton and Alexander McQueen surprised everyone. A few days before the British house’s spring-summer 2024 show, a press release informed the editorial staff of the end of their collaboration. This began in May 2010, when the English designer took over from Lee Alexander McQueen, who had killed himself four months earlier. In Paris, on September 30, Sarah Burton unveiled a collection inspired by “female anatomy, Queen Elizabeth Itimethe blood-red rose and Magdalena Abakanowicz, a transgressive and powerfully creative artist who refused to compromise her vision.” In the show’s note of intent, the designer also wrote: “This show is dedicated to the memory of Lee Alexander McQueen, whose lifelong desire was to empower women, and to the passion, talent and loyalty of my team.” On the podium, Yseult, Naomi Campbell and Kaia Gerber paraded, dressed in impeccably cut pieces. Reinvented tailoring, knits that reproduce the human body, 3D flower dresses… Sarah Burton, who dressed Kate Middleton during her wedding to Prince William in 2011, was then entitled to a standing ovation from the public, during a final moving salute.
Two days earlier, it was Gabriela Hearst who presented her last show for Chloé in the French capital. As usual, the Uruguayan designer has imagined a feminine and easy-to-wear collection, despite the sophistication of the knitted dresses, quilted leather bombers and monochrome suits. A parade concluded by Mangueira samba schooloriginally from Rio de Janeiro, who offered a surprise concert to the guests.
What’s next for Alexander McQueen, Chloé and Moschino?
Alexander McQueen did not wait long to reveal the name of his new artistic director. The Irishman Sean McGuirr was chosen by the group Kering, owner of the English brand, to replace Sarah Burton. A graduate of Central Saint Martins in London, he worked for the Uniqlo studio with Christophe Lemairethe Belgian brand Dries van Noten and the British JW Anderson. His appointment made some fashion specialists cringe. With his arrival, the various brands owned by Kering are all managed by white men: Matthew Blazy at Bottega Veneta, Sabato de Sarno at Gucci, Norbert Stumpfl at Brioni, Demna at Balenciaga and Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent.
Chloé also named a Central Saint Martins alumnus: Chemena Kamali. The German, born in 1981, already has a long history with the brand since she worked there under the aegis of Phoebe Philothen under the command of Clare Waight Keller. Since 2016, she has distinguished herself at Saint Laurent, where she directed women’s style for Anthony Vaccarello. Will she give rock inflections to Chloé’s bohemian traveler? Response during fall-winter 2024-2024 fashion week.
At Moschino, the Italian Davide Renne was announced on Monday October 16. This former member of the Gucci house will take up his duties on 1er november. “Franco Moschino had a nickname for his design studio: the giochi sala – the games room. This resonates deeply within me: what Italian fashion in particular, and the Moschino house in particular, can achieve with its enormous power, must be done in play, in joy (…) J ‘can’t wait to get started – we’re going to have fun”he declared in a press release. Giochiamo!