This village of stone and water with colorful cabins is accessible aboard an old steam locomotive.
In France, there are villages in the heart of unspoiled nature where time seems to have stood still. Among these, some are labeled “Most Beautiful Villages of France” because of their rich natural and built heritage. In Charente-Maritime, 13 villages scattered throughout the department have received the title of “Village of Stones and Water”, because their remarkable buildings are linked to water. However, these exceptional villages are often known to be difficult to access. What if we told you that there is a village in New Aquitaine that combines these two titles and can be reached by steam locomotive?
To get to this old oyster farming village nestled in the heart of the marshes in Charente-Maritime, you board the old steam locomotives of the Train des Mouettes on a railway line which has long transported salt, the famous “white gold” star of the region. Departing from Saujon, the tourist train runs along the salt marshes,pastures and vineyards. We come across storks, grey herons, egrets… Before finally arriving at your destination: Mornac-sur-Seudre. This village of 865 inhabitants located on the left bank of the Seudre, on the edge of the Arvert peninsula, offers a “landscape with a thousand basins” which “lives to the rhythm of the tide”, according to the host Stéphane Bern. From the port in the heart of the village, you can take a trip on the Seurdre aboard the Aigrette. Along the channel, you will discover old oyster huts in bright blue, red or yellow colors. The charm works.
Today the majority of its basins are used for oyster production, although there is still an active salt marsh. We visit the village through its alleys flowered with hollyhocks, with unique architecture in the old sailors’ quarter with typically Charentaise houses, white and low with blue or pastel green shutters. Glassmakers, leatherworkers, jewelers, potters… Many artisans have invested the village since the 1950s. A 5-kilometer loop, the “Taillées pedestrianes”, allows you to discover the tourist attractions of the village, from the Romanesque church to the market halls. medieval. Finally, we won’t miss tasting the famous eclade, a traditional Charentais dish of mussels arranged in a rosette then cooked on pine needles.
The village is located 10 kilometers north of Royan and about twenty kilometers from the Atlantic coast. By train, just go to the Saujon TER station, 7 minutes from Royan, to take the Train des Mouettes, which runs from April to September and during the All Saints’ Day holidays. The journey lasts thirty minutes and connects Saujon to La Tremblade via Mornac-sur-Seudre. The default ticket is a return ticket valid for the day (16 euros for an adult, 8 euros for a child aged 4 to 16), which allows for stopovers. Are we off?