The term “artisanal” is not a quality label.
Vanilla, strawberry, chocolate for the classics. Hazelnut, rum-raisin, mint for the more daring. Ice creams – or “gelato” as our Italian friends say – are among the delicacies that we appreciate the most in summer. The offer and diversity of flavors are plentiful in seaside villages and tourist spots. But between the “artisanal ice creams”, the “homemade” or those created by “artisan ice cream makers”, it is difficult to see clearly and be sure to come across a quality product.
Be careful with the “artisanal” label, which is not a quality label. It simply means that the company has the title of artisan and that it is registered with the Chamber of Trades and Crafts (CMA). This does not impose any quality standards for ingredients or any particular manufacturing process. In concrete terms, an ice cream maker can sell “artisanal ice creams” which are in fact ice creams made by another company (which has the title of artisan) or offer “premixes”, in other words “prefabricated” ice creams made from milk powder, vegetable fats and emulsifiers. This is often the case for so-called “Italian” ice creams made from large turbine machines like you can see at fairs or in front of “churros” or “granitas” trucks.
Vanilla ice cream is not yellow, but cream-colored with small black dots.
The term “homemade” is also not a guarantee of quality. It means that the ice creams are made on site, but there is nothing to prevent them from being made from premixes. The words “artisan ice cream maker” or “master ice cream maker” can be misleading because they are not linked to any specific regulations either.
To identify genuine artisanal ice cream, made from raw, quality raw materials according to the rules of the trade (turbination, maturation, cooling, etc.), National Confederation of Glaciers of France (CNGF) has created the Quality Charter “Traditional French Ice Creams & Sorbets” whose approval is granted to artisan ice cream makers who demonstrate excellent know-how and strictly respect the commitments of the Charter (in particular the holding of a craftsman’s title, a minimum of 3 years’ seniority in the profession, compliance with good hygiene practices, etc.). Thanks to a logo on a mint green background that is easily identifiable and displayed on the windows or fronts of ice cream parlors and street vendors (see opposite), “you are guaranteed to taste real artisanal ice cream, made by a professional with proven and recognized expertise.”
There are also other tips for spotting good quality ice cream:
► Color: artisanal ice creams are recognized by their soft, pastel and matte colors, reminiscent of the natural color of the product.Ice creams with too bright or flashy colors mean that colorings have been added. When you taste them, you should find the original taste of the ingredient as if you were biting into the product“, explains the CNGF on its website. A pistachio ice cream is not green (but beige-brown), a banana ice cream is not yellow-chicken (but beige), a vanilla ice cream is not yellow (but cream-colored with small black dots).
► Texture: Artisanal ice creams are denser and melt more quickly. Industrial ice creams, on the other hand, are more airy and melt less quickly due to the addition of stabilizers and emulsifiers.
► The appearance of the bin: “You should also be wary of tubs with ice that extends far beyond the surface: they are often made from semi-processed products.” generally containing gelatin to ensure the product holds its shape.
► The price? A high price is not necessarily synonymous with quality, especially in tourist areas where even industrial ice cream remains expensive. Similarly, a low price is not always an indicator. We are thinking in particular of certain “small village” ice cream parlors who do not practice aberrant prices.
There are no universal rules. A simple solution is to ask your ice cream maker questions to find out what they know.