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Long relegated to the background, the skin barrier – or ‘skin barrier’ – is now at the heart of attention, both on the side of cosmetic brands and consumers. A strong trend that is driving the counters crazy on social networks, reinforcing interest in the concept of holistic beauty, and placing prebiotics at the heart of an ever more minimalist beauty routine. Explanations.
Hydrate your skin deeply. A golden rule that cosmetics players have been harping on for years, rightly, because it is essential to protect the hydrolipidic film present on its surface to prevent future external aggressions. But until now it was essentially a question of looking at the deep layers of the skin, in particular to ensure its regeneration, without taking into account – or very little – its first and main bulwark against external aggressions: the skin barrier. Something about to change according to the brands, which offer more and more cosmetics intended to repair and strengthen it, but also consumers who are determined to prevent certain harms rather than constantly trying to hide them.
The skin barrier in sight
According to the Larousse, “By skin barrier we mean the stratum corneum – the most superficial and most keratinized layer of the epidermis – and the hydrolipidic film that covers it”. In other words, it is the outermost layer of the epidermis itself covered with an invisible film, the hydrolipidic film, composed of water and fat whose balance can be threatened by various factors. Today, it is this balance, which can be upset by age, an excessively intense beauty routine, stress, pollution, or even diet, which is at the heart of concerns because of its importance for beauty and skin health. It is no longer a question of multiplying the layers of products to try to put an end to the signs of aging, imperfections, and other damage, but of restoring and preserving the cutaneous barrier in the long term so that these do not show not – or little.
The pandemic has made it possible to refocus on the essentials, in all areas, and beauty has not escaped this. This resulted initially in lighter routines, then in a craze for holistic beauty, i.e. a global management of beauty articulated around food, sport, well-being, health and care. The attention paid today to the skin barrier is part of a continuity where health, well-being and beauty seem to be one and the same. It is a question of prevention rather than cure, and of reinforcing the natural defenses of the skin to make it – in the long term – more beautiful. A fundamental trend that appeals to the four corners of the world, and this from an early age. On TikTok, the hashtag #skinbarrier is the source of no less than 2.7 billion views, while the terms #skinbarrierrepair (repair of the skin barrier, in French) have already generated nearly 240 million views. At stake ? Tutorials and advice to restore and preserve this famous skin barrier.
Find the right balance
It is very easy to tell if the skin barrier is damaged, and it can show up in many ways: oily skin, dry skin, tight or irritated skin, even redness can be signs of a skin barrier. damaged, and more specifically from an imbalance of the hydrolipidic film. Before even taking an interest in the beauty routine, it is advisable to adopt a healthy and balanced diet, to drink enough water, and to protect yourself against certain external aggressions, such as the sun and pollution, with dedicated cosmetics. And of course, sleep – a crucial moment for the regeneration of the skin – is also essential. So many gestures that will allow the skin barrier to be preserved over the long term.
If we are interested in the beauty routine, it is important to banish all aggressive cosmetics which can have a short-term action but contribute to degrading the skin barrier. Mild cleansers are preferred (a cleansing cream or oil), as are vegetable oils, while weekly exfoliation should also be gentle. The best thing is to turn to a minimalist beauty routine with a makeup remover and a gentle cleanser, a moisturizer, and possibly a serum, and stick to it. Because changing your beauty routine frequently can contribute to damaging the skin barrier. On TikTok, the videos also recommend turning away from acids and retinoids to embrace ceramides and hyaluronic acid, which are more soothing for the skin. Gestures that should allow as many people as possible to reconnect with healthy skin in three or four weeks.
The interest of prebiotics
From 2021, there was interest in the emergence of prebiotics and probiotics in the cosmetics sector with more and more players on the market. A trend that is not unrelated to this sudden interest in the skin barrier. Prebiotics are the specific food for the good bacteria which develop at the expense of the bad ones so as not to upset the balance of the microbiota, and therefore ensure that the skin is soothed and defends itself correctly against external aggressions. Does it remind you of anything? Introducing prebiotics into your beauty routine helps to deinflame the skin and soothe it, but above all to strengthen it, in order to regain a sufficient level of hydration, and thus fight against dryness, redness, or even imperfections. Many brands now offer gentle cosmetics based on prebiotics, such as Gallinée, Aurelia Skincare, Orveda, or Talika. Enough to durably restore this famous cutaneous barrier.