The restaurant commission visits Hotell Borgholm on Öland

Many who love Öland say that the island’s charm is based on the so-called elite being somewhere else – in other words: in Visby. There is also sourdough and fusion cuisine. In Borgholm, it is mostly soft ice cream and pan steak.

But no matter how much the Öland audience prides itself on being unpretentious, the Krog Commission’s summer patrol can not help but try the island’s Michelin – starred exception – the 50th anniversary Hotel Borgholm.

The bath toys on Storgatan swaying in the wind, when the shiny glass door to the hotel opens onto soft carpets, gentle lighting and magical interior details. In summer, guests can choose right – towards the seasonal bistro in the herb garden, or left – to the dining room where the star menus are served. Both choices should prove to be equally successful.

It has been three years since the chef’s legend Karin Fransson left the Öland hotel and took her then star with her. When it became clear that Västgöten Christofer Johansson would shoulder the responsibility for Fransson’s legacy, he himself spoke of a “horror-mixed delight”, but it must have subsided. In the autumn, the new regime received Guide Michelin’s award back, on its own merits, and now the restaurant only exudes confident creativity.

The reception in the completely renovated dining room is responsive and warm. On the round, light wooden tables is a specially designed tableware from Paradisverkstan. When the luxury can be picked up locally, it is done, and the winks to Öland are many. The tasting menu is, for example, named “The Great Seriousness” (SEK 1,550), after the island’s barren expanses and the first serving is called “Ämmende tvesögle” – which can be freely translated into “Extra allt”, in Persnäs dialect.

The three appetizers behind the title are small flower-adorned works of art with a fine balance in the flavors: a sour carrot ball, a delicious mini pie with crab and a cape-spiced shortbread boat with cream cheese. The next dish is even more beautiful and is served in a sharply cut eggshell. Under a generous scoop of roe we find a delicious cream of potatoes, eggs and pickled gooseberries. It’s advanced, but hip. Like so much else at Hotell Borgholm, the effort feels genuine.

We choose the classic wine package (SEK 1,050) in front of the more luxurious “from the wine cellar” (SEK 1,550), and appreciates that the staff unsolicited offers half glasses, for half the price (SEK 525). It should prove to be fully sufficient in volume.

After healthy white wines in the first glasses, a slightly surprising sherry comes in the middle of the menu, and it is perfect for the caramelized onion soup that hides under thyme and Sichuan pepper-spiced sabayonne. Somewhere here, the servings are starting to be choreographed in a continued choice-free way. For example, the foam over the meadow food’s primers is poured on simultaneously by several waiters. The care of both food and guests is visible and palpable.

The strong wine returns in the glasses in the form of an easy-drinking Rainwatermadeira to the dish with beetroot and rabbit, for those of us who eat meat. One in the party has asked to get fish instead, which is solved without problems. At this stage in the menu, however, none of the variants impress. A fantastic start loses something in speed in the middle. The bouncy farting looks fun, but does not stay in the taste memory, and the marlin that adorns both the monkfish and the beautiful beef fillet has a slightly dull aftertaste.

In total, these are just notes in the margin. They have to be made, but we quickly forget them because the wine is still high quality and the dining experience will soon catch up. A lemon thyme sorbet with elderberry liqueur marks the restart and the dessert that follows is one of the best we have ever tasted. A scoop of Williamspäron parfait is served with a ridiculously good honey pudding, and is perfectly accompanied by ginger, pepper, gooseberries, crispy biscuits and a beautiful cucumber foam.

When we return to Hotell Borgholm it is a warm evening and we decide to go right, out to the bistro at the walled limestone courtyard. We will not regret it.

Only the drink menu, created by Kalmar-born Bella Porcile, is worth a whole evening. Bella has made a name for herself as a bartender at Torpedverkstan in Stockholm and Fjällpuben in Åre and uses nature as inspiration and spice. When she now returns to her home area, Öland’s chamomile, cucumber and wormwood end up in her magnificent drinks. The nettle powder on the menu’s sour – “The Bird Watcher” – does not burn in the slightest, but lights the taste buds. We’re up and running!

A thyme-spiced onion toast (SEK 125) with a proper piece of Wrångebäcksost makes everyone in the party rejoice. The other bruschetta variant with strawberries, tomato and feta cheese (SEK 145) is lively in summer. The bistro also offers raw beef in both whole (SEK 275) and half (SEK 195) size, as well as toast Skagen, also in two sizes (SEK 295 / SEK 225). The Skagen scrambled eggs are well-balanced and the fries for the steak are just everything you could want – hot, crispy and salty. It is possible to order both luxurious black caviar (SEK 795) and a hearty tournedos (SEK 550) out here on the farm, but the Pub Commission thinks that the money is better spent on another choice from the drink list.

The negro variant “Eldmörja”, where the large ice cube consists of slowly melting earl gray tea, ties together the evening. A perfect seal, which lingers in the memory for days afterwards.

The hotel’s courtyard is truly an oasis, and it can actually be visited even during the day for those who need a break from the high season street noise. When the bistro is closed, the reception serves a rare good espresso. You know, the kind they fertilize with – on Gotland.

Read more of the Pub Commission’s tests