The new codes of jewelers which define their singularity – L’Express

The French jewelry industry owes its notoriety both to the excellence of its fine jewelry and to the inventiveness of the fantasy segment. Between the two, traditional houses and a myriad of small designers manage to do well. The field of possibilities thus widens to all consumer styles. Some accumulate iconic jewelry from major brands, as if to identify with a social belonging that reassures them. Others prefer to stand out by wearing a piece with a singular design, generally worn asymmetrically, or even solo. Some people still imagine new ways of combining materials and shapes. If they transgress the codes somewhat, their posture nevertheless retains a certain sense of derision. In fact, each contributes to redefining the standards of timelessness.

Ear jewelry, rings for two fingers, accumulation of fine bracelets on the wrists, charms with medals around the neck, XXL earrings worn alone or asymmetrically, body chains, piercings… even grillz, these dental ornaments borrowed from the hip-hop world. Born in the street or on the catwalks, the way of wearing jewelry is constantly evolving and allows all freedoms.

“We notice a desire to transgress the codes, but with fantasy, by appealing to this form of ‘glamour’ – a word formed from ‘glamour’ and ‘humour’ – without real provocation”, deciphers Vincent Grégoire, director Consumer Trends & Insights from the NellyRodi agency. The trend hunter observes trends that continue, such as the taste for talismans and lucky charms of all kinds, or the mixture of styles: precious with fantasy, vintage combined with contemporary, family jewel alongside iconic pieces from great houses .

Position yourself as an esthete

He also notes the recent appearance of an attraction for artists’ creations, a way of displaying one’s education in terms of style, of positioning oneself as an esthete in the face of the Place Vendôme brands which monopolize the market. This is confirmed by Clara de Pirey, director of the luxury division at NellyRodi. Last September, she revealed a study entitled Watches & Jewelry’s New Era on the challenges of the watch and jewelry industry, which “has historic players shaken up by the creativity of an extremely agile new guard and the demands of increasingly expert customers”.

The history of jewelry has never known a period as rich as the beginning of the 21st century, where anything seems possible. Many are looking for ways to show their personality by wearing distinctive jewelry, sometimes made to measure, or found second hand. In this joyful hodgepodge, everyone imagines and develops their personal accumulation of jewelry pieces. And in some way draws the markers of its singularity.