From the start of the school year, the Wine Fairs are set up in most major retail chains, at wine merchants and on online stores. After a 2023 edition that was down both in value – 988 million euros (- 2%) – and in volume – 133.5 million bottles purchased (- 5%) – this year’s event will be essential for the entire sector, especially in a context of declining purchasing power. To guide you, L’Express presents its exclusive selection according to the different regions on its central pages, the result of tasting hundreds of samples and analyzing dozens of catalogs. On our website, you will also find details, chain by chain, with the different dates of these bacchic festivals that have become essential. Enough to enrich your cellar at a lower cost.
Even though their production has increased significantly in recent years, white wines remain a minority, or even accessory, in Languedoc, a land historically marked by red. While it is difficult to obtain exhaustive figures, the share of white wines seems to be contained around 10% for the protected designations of origin (PDO) of Languedoc and the protected geographical indications (PGI) of Sud de France. In fact, there are only three 100% white appellations in the region: Picpoul-de-Pinet, Limoux Blanc and Clairette-du-Languedoc (in sparkling wine). And of the 22 other PDOs (excluding sparkling wines and natural sweet wines), only four produce a white, namely Saint-Chinian, Faugères, La-Clape and Languedoc, for which the share of this colour varies from 5 to 17%. The most widely planted grape varieties are not particularly local. The top three are Chardonnay, Sauvignon and Viognier. Not enough to define a regional identity.
A color that is becoming fashionable
However, white is becoming the fashionable color. According to the annual study by the marketing and communications consulting agency Sowine, published in March 2024, white is the wine that the French say they consume most frequently (90%); rosé is in second place (87%), with red coming in third (82%). Consumers are now looking for freshness, and Languedoc now has the weapons to meet this demand. “Whites are on the rise, particularly for PGIs and single-varietals,” confirms Pierre Bories, the new president of the Languedoc Interprofessional Wine Council (CIVL) and winemaker at the Ollieux Romanis estate in Boutenac. As proof, from 2010 to 2023, for PDOs alone, white production increased by 16%, while red production fell by 15% (source: CIVL).
Visionary, wine merchant Jean-Claude Mas already produces almost half of his 940 hectares of vines in white wines and with his dozens of partner winegrowers. “Contrary to popular belief, the region has the terroirs to produce excellent whites. The first wine I signed with my name was a blend of Chardonnay and Viognier, which was a great success, despite this marriage being incongruous at the time.” Viognier is also a grape variety that this grandson of a winegrower seems to particularly appreciate in Languedoc. “To the extent that you have a suitable terroir, it can express itself in very different styles, alone or blended with other varieties.” A particularity that he also likes to find in Chardonnay. “I compare it to a blank canvas, a canvas, on which we will draw the style of wine we want. It can take on notes of very ripe pineapple in Hérault or lime blossom in Limoux.” Jean-Claude Mas does not limit himself to these two grape varieties of course. He cultivates 25 white varieties and even tests some resistant varieties, given the issues related to climate change. “Souvignier gris, a cross created in Germany between cabernet-sauvignon and bronner, is now giving very good results. I campaign for us to be able to introduce this type of grape variety up to 15% in our wines.”
The question of grape variety is also at the center of debates today. Because different types of varieties coexist in this vast region. Without being exhaustive, there are first the local grape varieties such as Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, Clairette, Carignan Blanc, Terret Blanc and Piquepoul Blanc. There are those borrowed from the Rhône, such as Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier, from Italy (the Rolle that some diehards continue to call vermentino), or even Catalans (Malvoisie, also known as Tourbat, and Macabeu). “Historically, as the fashionable whites of Languedoc came mainly from international grape varieties, we had lost our identity a little,” explains Pierre Bories. “Now it is the local grape varieties that are exploding. Look at the case of Picpoul, which has managed to establish itself with its typicality. This Languedoc variety is now enjoying huge export success. The example of Picpoul-de-pinet will open up avenues of development for other appellations.” In just over ten years, its production has increased by 32%.
No ban but free choice left to winegrowers
At least two sub-regional or communal appellations are thus working on integrating white into their specifications. This is the case, for example, of Terrasses-du-Larzac, which obtained the appellation for its reds in 2014. “At the time, we did not have the collective maturity on the whites,” explains Vincent Goumard, from Mas Cal Demoura, president of the appellation at the time of the classification. There were too many families of expression, no clearly defined identity. Ultimately, having waited ten more years for the whites turns out to be a very good choice. Today, their profile has changed: they were generous, they now appear fresh and energetic.” In the territory of Terrasses-du-Larzac, the five grape varieties now most planted are Roussanne, Rolle, Grenache blanc, Carignan blanc and Chenin.
“Nearly 40% of the estates work these last two: they will have a key role in our appellation request. They are the ones that reveal the terroir the most, unlike Roussanne which can take over. This is also the case for Viognier, often too varietal. It was planted a lot on terraces, twenty-five years ago, but everyone comes back to it. I myself pulled it out, because I couldn’t bring it to the expressions of terroir that I was looking for.” The Boutenac appellation, located in the Corbières, has also launched this project a few months ago with, at the helm, Etienne Besancenot, the director of Château Caraguilhes and head of the Boutenac technical commission. “We have put Carignan in the spotlight in our red, why not do the same for our white with its pale cousin? Some Boutenac estates already produce whites with this grape variety alone. But perhaps the best thing would be to take inspiration from the specifications of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOP: no ban, free choice left to winegrowers to produce their vintages with the authorized grape varieties…”
The fact remains that the path to recognition of the appellations is proving to be long: it should take many years for Boutenac and Terrasses-du-Larzac. “Most of the great white wines are produced in the northern regions, most often in single varietals. In Languedoc, white is summed up as a sum of individual stories, with a tradition of blending. It is thanks to this that we will finally be recognized for these wines!” concludes Vincent Goumard.
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