It used to be doubted that rosé was a real wine. And yet, in twenty years, the third color has conquered the palates of the French (a third of consumption) and the Americans, who love pink wine. However, this fad of pale and fresh rosé, invented in Provence, is increasingly taking on the trappings of an industry, dominated by technology and marketing. If, in this matter, the success stories locals are legion, it is the rise of large groups that shakes the kingdom of Helios and Bacchus.
Rosé must become a luxury product
At the forefront, Moët Hennessy (MH), a subsidiary that manages LVMH’s wine and spirits businesses, has long been interested in the region. Ten years ago, rumors of the takeover of Château Minuty were already circulating in the vineyards. Many other reputable estates were approached. Without realization. So, when in July 2019, Château Galoupet joined the empire of Bernard Arnault, some see in the operation only a consolation prize. This property on the Var coast offered by a maharajah to his wife in 1973, was not among the most prestigious of the 18 classified growths of Provence. But, a few months later, the takeover of 55% of the capital of Château d’Esclans confirmed the desire of the luxury group to become a major player in the sector – if not the main one -, particularly on the international market, where he excels. The owner of the vintage showed no other ambition. Legend of the mondovino, Sacha Lichine sold in 2005 the family classified growth of Margaux, Prieuré-Lichine, to settle in the Var hinterland. From the outset, the visionary proclaimed that “rosé must become a luxury product” and launched – with success – the most expensive bottle of its kind in the world, his Garus at 100 euros. But the formidable success of the Franco-American colossus is elsewhere. It was he who projected the Côtes-de-Provence in general and his Whispering Angels cuvée in particular into the light of the market across the Atlantic. The Château d’Esclans quietly sells 6 million bottles there per year, that is to say more than half of the production. It’s up to Moët Hennessy, therefore, to conquer the rest of the world… – Sacha Lichine could not have dreamed of better than “to see his wine appear from now on in the middle of Dom Pérignon, Cheval Blanc and Yquem across the planet”.
In Galoupet, the estate is a showcase for the biodiversity commitments made by Bernard Arnault with a vast reforestation program and one hectare of vines devoted to research on resistant grape varieties.
The star of rosés falls into the hands of LVMH
Finally, still not satisfied, LVMH materialized, in February, its old dream of getting its hands on Château Minuty, the star of the rosés of Provence – 150 hectares of vines in property, a trade and an efficient industrial tool, 9 million bottles . The two parties had already established commercial agreements: “We ensure the distribution of Ruinart in the Var and Moët Hennessy accompanies us on certain export markets”, explains François Matton, co-owner of the estate. Eventually, the merger will have led to the acquisition of a majority stake. He and his brother Jean-Etienne, who have ensured the tremendous success of the family estate, remain fully invested in “this strategic alliance which will allow the brand to be developed internationally”, assures Jean-Etienne. “In the United States, we have reached a glass ceiling of 700,000 bottles. Only Moët Hennessy can break it”, continues François.
At MH, its CEO Philippe Schaus sees far: “Provence must be to rosé what Champagne is to sparkling wines: a product of first choice. And in the wake of Esclans and Minuty (production climbs to 25 million bottles ), we will train the smaller brands.”
“Good news, too, for Eric Pastorino, the president of the region’s wine interprofessional organization. These investments reward the work accomplished by the sector to change the image of rosé. They will continue to pull the appellation upwards. high.” It’s hard for the boss of the Cave de Gonfaron, his other cap, not to be delighted with the price of a hectolitre of Côtes-de-Provence (more than 300 euros), when that of Bordeaux Supérieur barely exceeds a third…
The concern of independent winegrowers
Still, these major maneuvers do not fail to worry independent winegrowers. Their regional president Laurent Bunan denounces “the total disconnection between the price of land which is soaring, with the stranglehold of large groups with enormous financial capacities, and the winegrowers who wish to live off the fruit of their labor”. “The valuation of land poses a serious problem of transmission of heritage, also underlines the co-manager of the family estate where four generations – “from 25 to 88 years old!” – are active. Same apprehension on the side of Figuière, where the enterprising Combard siblings perpetuate the Burgundian approach to the terroir that their father instilled in them. Magali, the commercial director, fears that these “steamrollers” will dry up the bulk market for petty trade. “Buying vines is proving very difficult, continues the young woman, before slipping greedily that one of the most important contributors to the Collobrières cooperative, with the 75 hectares of its Clos Fanny, has favored their purchase offer, reasonable, to the golden sirens of LVMH. “We negotiated between winegrowers from the Var.“
A southern complicity also evoked by César Giron, president of the prestige division of Pernod Ricard (Martell, Perrier-Jouët and Mumm), to shed light on the arrival at Château Sainte Marguerite of the group born in Marseille. “It is the union of two families who share, with rosé and champagne, the same public and the same networks.” Understand: the Fayard family, which raised the 200-hectare estate to the top of the La Londe-les-Maures appellation, retains control of the wines, but their distribution will now be ensured by the world’s No. 2 in wines and spirits – 8.8 billion euros in turnover. Which of course means producing more. The takeover of Château Deffends (35 hectares), in progress, and the partnerships that Olivier Fayard is forging with winegrowers, even cooperatives, should respond to this.
Celebrities and big fortunes multiply acquisitions
The Bouches-du-Rhône have not escaped the revolution that is shaking the world of rosé from Provence. The acquisition in 2019 of the Château d’Estoublon, in the Alpilles, by the wealthy entrepreneur Stéphane Courbit augured the creation of a new giant. Quickly confirmed by the takeovers, one after the other this year, of Château Beaulieu (172 hectares), the largest estate in Coteaux-d’Aix-en-Provence, and Domaine de Cantarelle (178 hectares), in Coteaux-Varois. The founder of Lov Group (luxury hotel audiovisual, etc.) is accompanied in the adventure by the couple Bruni-Sarkozy and Jean-Guillaume Prats. The latter, from the aristocracy of the Bordeaux cork, managed Cos d’Estournel for fifteen years, before taking the helm of the wine division of Moët Hennessy, then of the mythical Château Lafite-Rothschild. An experience as rare as it is rich that he uses to create Roseblood, the rosé brand launched by Estoublon to conquer… the world. For their part, the former president will open his thick address book and his wife will lend her image.
It must be said that at the moment, in Provence, the celebrity marketing makes recipe. Alongside Brad Pitt (Miraval), Tony Parker (La Mascaronne), George Lucas (Margüi), George Clooney (Canadel), Ridley Scott (Mas des Infermières), Patrick Bruel (Domaine Leos), Kylie Minogue (Sainte-Roseline) … invest in the rosé business. A lever that leaves Magali Combard unmoved: “With us, the star is wine!”