L’Express: You were born and raised in Haiti. How did you “land” in Montreal?
Paul Toussaint: I first lived in Ottawa. I had finished my studies in Haiti and my father, who lived in Canada, asked me to join him to study law. But after three years, I realized that it didn’t interest me at all. On the other hand, in the summer, I organized beautiful parties at my house. People loved my cooking. If there was one thing I loved doing, that was it. So I told my father that I didn’t want to continue. It was very difficult for him. I left home and went to Montreal. It was in 2010.
How was your arrival?
It was hard. As I came from another province, studies were more expensive. I had to spend six months without going to school before being recognized as a Quebec resident. Then, my studies in catering at College Lasalle cost me 1000 dollars (740 euros) per month and I worked at Tim Hortons [NDLR : chaîne de restaurants] where I earned… 1200 dollars (888 euros). Fortunately, I did my internship at Toqué! During three months. It is the number 1 restaurant in Canada. Then they offered me to continue. I stayed there for three years.
Where does this taste for cooking come from?
From my babysitter [NDLR : nourrice], Sonia Gabriel, with whom I grew up from the age of 7. She taught me how to cook classic Haitian dishes. If I’m here, it’s thanks to her!
How do you become a successful chef in Montreal?
It is a profession of passion. In this universe, you must first have a story to tell. So I went back to Haiti from 2013 to 2017 as a chef, to immerse myself in local products, spices, culture… In August 2017, I joined the kitchens of Agrikol, a Haitian restaurant Montreal tradition. Time Out Market then gave me great visibility by letting me open a stand in 2019.
Then you created Kamuy in June 2020… Is this the real way to bring your culture to life?
Yes, I wanted to offer a Caribbean fusion, with a mixture of flavors. Kamuy means “sun” in Taino, the language of the Arawaks. When you enter my restaurant, you must feel the Haitian culture: the perfume, the music, the art…
Rather daring to launch a restaurant during the pandemic!
I was not afraid. We are a people of resilience. I have always lived in chaos. There was an opportunity to rent a space on Place des Arts. This type of location is rare. I knew we were going to get through this crisis!
How do you feel in Montreal?
I feel at home. There are many Haitians here. There are Haitian markets, we hear Haitian music… The stage is there. In Quebec, diversity is very present. What characterizes Montreal is the mixture of cultures. Here you can circumnavigate the globe.
What are your projects ?
I want to recreate – in a farm or a warehouse – a kind of Caribbean garden, with plants, cooking, music. I will also start making my own rum which I will age here.