“Design is like sport, whatever the intended goal, it remains a game”, writes Mathilde Lacoste. This game, it is at the headquarters of Fusalp that the artistic director leads it with her teams. In Annecy, in an industrial building of some 6,000 square meters, stylists and model makers devote themselves to the brand’s collections of ski clothing but also, now, ready-to-wear.
Pinned to a large wall, photos of artists reveal the sources of inspiration: Drake, Angèle, Jain, Billie Eilish… The selection of the fall-winter 2022-2023 collection is very streetwear. The tone is set. “Each season, Mathilde focuses on the universes on which she wishes to work. She begins by drawing inspiration from photos, before moving on to desires for silhouettes, materials and colors. From there, she delivers designs, for each category: long coats, blousons, jackets, trousers…”, explains Elisabeth Malcor, product and merchandising director at Fusalp.
A more urban style
That day, in absolute silence, Agathe, Charlotte, Maud, Elisa, Sophie, Christine and their colleagues work on the next collections. Their role ? Translate the mood board and the first pencil strokes into a very real line. “The stylists will create a 2D design, from which the modelers will create a 3D garment, continues Elisabeth Malcor. They are able to have this double language, between creation and technical and industrial interpretation. One of the great mysteries of creation is above all about defining the silhouette, without sacrificing the values of the brand or its message.”
And that’s the whole point. Because since the takeover of Fusalp in 2014, Sophie Lacoste, her brother Philippe and Alexandre Fauvet have been committed to developing “sporty chic” clothing lines, while preserving its founding values. “We want to offer a more urban style to accompany women and men at all times of life, throughout the year, but by drawing on the history of the brand”, says Sophie Lacoste-Dournel. And Alexandre Fauvet, to add: “We do not betray the founders. From the creation, in 1952, Georges Ribola and René Veyrat were above all tailors who wanted to give ski champions the benefit of their technical know-how so that they improve their performance. We are part of a continuity.”
Model makers trained at Balenciaga, Saint Laurent…
Because Fusalp’s DNA is also technicality. And so the material. On this point, there is no compromise. “Our obsession is innovation”, assures the managing director. Fight against the cold, freedom of movement, water repellency… Nothing is left to chance, and this for each model. Last novelty used? ThindownTM insulation combined with Sorona® technology, a filling combining recycled feathers with an organic corn base, a clever mix of lighter, more compact and easily “punched” materials.
This material makes it possible in particular to guarantee a fitted cut as well as real comfort, while preserving the identity codes of the brand, such as the chevron or the diamond, these embroidered and textured effects invented in the 1960s by the designer of the time. , Ingrid Buchner, to ensure stretchability. A play of materials that gives rise, for example, to a chevron on velvet or leather. Everything is enhanced with emblematic colors, such as these samples of vibrant orange-red or forest green that Alexandre Fauvet discovered that day, amazed by the work of the team. To guarantee such a repositioning, the brand has chosen to surround itself with the best: “We work with model makers trained at Balenciaga, Saint Laurent…”, insists Elisabeth Malcor.
French ski team in 1966 at the world championships in Portillo, dressed in Fusalp
© / PDS
The result of this dual sporting and fashion heritage? A hybrid collection that combines style and technicality, wearable both in the mountains and in the city, and which structures the silhouette. But also an off-season line, where large volumes mingle with fitted cuts, where technical materials meet the texture and appearance of those of ready-to-wear. Thus these trousers revisited for the city associated with a fitted jacket, or these leggings under a long trench coat in waterproof and breathable stretch twill. And, of course, always a “100% ski” line, with its recognizable combinations on the slopes. Seventy years later, the cuts have evolved, but the style remains. And the brand is back to profitability.
Coming out of the workshops, on a dummy, the first tight-fitting ski suit adopted by the French team in 1966 at the world championships in Portillo, expresses the brand’s DNA. “When the team arrived dressed like this, it looked like they were coming out of the Star Trek ship,” comments Sophie Lacoste. True champions – not of space – but of tracks which that year won 7 titles out of 8, 16 medals out of 24, with six doubles. A performance never equaled. And a success that certainly guides the buyers of the “Alpine spindle”.