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Despite awareness and progressive bans by some countries like Cameroon, voluntary depigmentation remains a major problem among populations of color. One thing pointed out by Hannelore Ver-Ndoye, geography, history and citizenship teacher, in the book “Discolored: an overview of voluntary depigmentation of the skin”, which discusses the harmfulness of these products, as well as the impact of colorism on minorities. Interview.
What are the reasons that continue to drive women to lighten their skin today?
The reality is that light-skinned people (white or mixed race) are still mostly valued in the media and dark-skinned people are generally marginalized. In some countries even more than in others… But this is not the only factor in question. There is the whole dimension of social discrimination linked to the fact of having dark skin. In access to work, housing, the marriage market, social valorization, among others, having dark skin is still today a factor that can be discriminating or even excluding, and this whether one is in India, in South Korea, Brazil, Morocco… There is also a colorism, that is to say a gradual privileged treatment of light skin tones within populations of color, still very present in many societies. As long as all this discrimination lasts, the urge to lighten the skin will be there.
On social networks, we find content labeled #skinwhitening which attracts millions of views, especially on TikTok, which is widely used by young people. Can we speak of a new form of danger made more accessible to young people?
This clearly represents a new danger because, on the one hand, the offer has never been so diversified and easy to access and, on the other hand, the marketing strategies have never been so refined. We offer products that may look innocent and risk-free, such as teas, patches, so-called ‘natural’ products, but that’s not true: there are no depigmenting means that are safe for health. . Another important thing to remember: the more effective the depigmentation, the more dangerous it is. Marketing strategies have been further improved, sharpened, always leaving the sparkle of alternatives that would be natural and healthy, highlighting ingredients such as aloe vera, moringa, lemon, carrot. The presence or quantity of harmful substances is omitted: mercury, corticosteroids, hydroquinone, etc. The influence of social networks unfortunately helps to make this business grow and to democratize it. However, voices are being raised to denounce this.
Why are consumers more stigmatized than the brands themselves?
It’s a reality, and a real problem, because it’s often counterproductive. In my book I emphasize that the goal is not to point the finger at the users of depigmenting techniques but all the underlying mechanisms. And among the mechanisms in question, there are those who make money thanks to this business. It’s a real scandal, many people market poisons without any morality, in order to make a lot of money. There are some at all levels, and this is accompanied by well-rehearsed marketing. It’s time to tackle these brands more.
*”Discolored: an overview of voluntary depigmentation of the skin”, Hannelore Ver-Ndoye, Omniscience editions.