2024 marks the 50th anniversary of the Mugler house. On the occasion of the anniversary of the label founded by its visionary creator, “Inside the dream: in the footsteps of Thierry Mugler” was released on September 25 on Canal+. It will please fashionistas… But not only that. Well-kept secrets, backstage at the fashion show: the curious will inevitably leave with a piece of information or two to expand their G culture.
Thierry Mugler’s imagination has no limits… And certainly no financial barriers. On the occasion of the house’s tenth anniversary in 1984, the visionary did not hesitate to spend all of the company’s money to put on a show at the Zénith in Paris. For the 50th anniversary taking place this year, the documentary option was favored. Directed by the talented Matthieu Menu, “Inside the dream: in the footsteps of Thierry Mugler”, is interested in the monstrous heritage bequeathed by the creator, and in the difficult mission of its transmission incumbent on his successors.
Indeed, Thierry Mugler was so disruptive and innovative in his time that he left almost no room for subsequent artistic directors. He not only revolutionized the codes of Fashion, but also the world of perfume. How to chart your own path while remaining in the wake of the star designer? How can we honor the brand’s heritage while breathing new life into its history? This tension between “respect for the past” and “innovation for the present” is transcribed throughout the 62-minute documentary, through the work carried out by the Mugler teams and artistic director Casey Cadwallader.
For several months, the cameras followed them jointly in the preparation of the spring-summer 2024 fashion show and in the design of the new perfume “Angel Elixir”. In addition to discovering the challenges faced by teams today, we also see the countless innovations driven by this genius in the past. Even fashion enthusiasts, who thought they knew everything about the brand’s secrets, risk being surprised.
Avant-garde creator, misunderstood artist: Thierry Mugler was ahead of his time and he was well aware of that: “People don’t realize that I’m right, and in two years, we’ll be there, that’s obvious.”he proudly affirmed. The documentary immerses us in fascinating archive videos, which help us to better understand the approach of this designer who is ahead of the trends. He parades those who are not usually “runway worthy” in the eyes of society: drag queens, transgender people, porn actors, mingling with renowned actresses and adored top models such as Linda Evangelista. or Adriana Karembeu.
Mugler beauty is synonymous with inclusiveness. This is surely the “simplest” legacy to perpetuate for Casey Cadwallader, who does not hesitate to invite all types of beauty to walk the catwalk at his fashion shows. A strong symbol of this beauty that defies norms: Hunter Schafer, the transgender actress revealed by the series Euphoriais now the face of Angel perfume.
To critics who accuse him of reducing women to the rank of “sexual objects”, Manfred Thierry Mugler retorts that he makes them not objects, but “sexual topics”. The current artistic director, who took the helm of the house’s creation in 2017, extends this idea of ultra-femininity with sensual pieces reinterpreted in his own way. He shed the complicated materials loved by his predecessor, and introduced simple materials that were dear to him (such as denim). It continues to celebrate the sensuality of women, revealing parts of their body while enhancing them, with “cut outs” and subtle cuts made in the clothing.
If Thierry Mugler was into permanent theatricality, making his clothes into costumes worthy of a live performance, Casey Cadwallader offers a less “primary” interpretation of the themes discussed during the fashion shows. This is the case for its spring-summer 2024 collection, the preparations of which we follow, which is inspired by marine creations.
No real “fish woman” on the horizon, playing the role in an exuberant way, nor any fins or visible scales: it is the vaporous trains and the long fabrics decorating the pieces, flying with the wind, which are illustrate like fins and/or tentacles and are adorned with theatricality. During the Cadwallader era, models continued to parade with power but were no longer required to perform.
On the perfumery side, the challenge of linking past and present also arises. During the 62 minutes of the film, we follow the creation of the new Angel Elixir perfume; between choice of new scents, summit meetings between L’Oréal bosses and employees. Born in the 90s, the Angel fragrance created a break with the perfumes of the time, both through its unique star bottle, and through its delicious scent of cotton candy which introduced a new olfactory family previously unpublished : that of gourmands.
Similar to the problems encountered by the artistic director on the Fashion side, the Mugler teams are faced with the following question: how to revolutionize without distorting the one who created a tidal wave in the perfume industry? In hindsight, the bet seems successful.
Whether we love or hate the Mugler label, we can only recognize the genius of the master at the end of this documentary. “Inside the Dream” is available exclusively on Canal+ since September 25, 2024.