The French jewelry industry owes its notoriety both to the excellence of its fine jewelry and to the inventiveness of the fantasy segment. Between the two, traditional houses and a myriad of small designers manage to do well. The field of possibilities thus widens to all consumer styles. Some accumulate iconic jewelry from major brands, as if to identify with a social belonging that reassures them. Others prefer to stand out by wearing a piece with a singular design, generally worn asymmetrically, or even solo. Some people still imagine new ways of combining materials and shapes. If they transgress the codes somewhat, their posture nevertheless retains a certain sense of derision. In fact, each contributes to redefining the standards of timelessness.
Historically present on the world market, South Africa no longer stands out as the largest producer of diamonds. But one of its mines, that of Kimberley, is at the origin of international regulations aimed at banning “conflict diamonds”, that is to say from the African continent and which fuel the numerous wars fought by rebels to governments.
Since its establishment, the cards have been largely reshuffled: Botswana and Canada are now at the top of the producing countries. Particularly since the European Union and the group of seven major world powers (G7) banned diamonds from Russia, until now the leading producer, responsible for the invasion of Ukraine. In the Canadian subarctic region and, more precisely, in the Northwest Territories, the discovery of the first crude oils dates back barely thirty years. Established on frozen ground, the mines produce high quality stones, generally immaculate white, intended for jewelry. A large part is cut by local artisans with guaranteed traceability thanks to laser engraving carried out on the gem. The biggest international brands, such as those from Place Vendôme, regularly select them for their creations.
Now, diamond mining is the largest private sector industry in the entire Northwest Territories. It represents a quarter of GDP, contributes to the economy of indigenous peoples, supports education and professional training programs, and promotes the implementation of alternative technologies – such as wind turbines – to reduce carbon emissions.
DeBeers. Enchanted Lotus diamond ring.
© / De Beers
Same efforts to preserve the environment and populations in Botswana, in southern Africa. This industry made it possible to finance schools and hospitals and build roads. Its mission is also to reduce the impact on biodiversity.
In reality, this quest for sustainability undertaken internationally by the main diamond players has been implemented for more than two decades. It relies on bodies such as the Responsible Jewelery Council (RJC), the first standardization organization in terms of development for the jewelry and watch industry, or the Natural Diamond Council (NDC), an organization whose latest initiative is currently visible in Paris: the “Big Bang” exhibition, open to the public until November 24 at the Cité, 71 rue Réaumur. It presents photographer Sonia Sieff’s view of the natural diamond.
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