Yann Rivoallan feels an unpleasant feeling of déjà vu. On September 6, 2024, the president of the French Women’s Ready-to-Wear Federation (FFPPF) met for the first time Donald Tang, the boss of Shein, who came to present to him the controversial ultra-fast-fashion clothing sales platform . In the introduction, the American businessman, born in Shanghai, multiplies the assertions, some of which are questionable to say the least: “We are democratizing fashion and we are doing it in an ecological way. However, this sector today has a bad image We need you to change this and we can do it with Shein.” The company of Chinese origin – it moved its headquarters to Singapore in 2022 – plans to bring French brands on board with it, so that they can sell their products on its site.
Four months later, Christophe Castaner, named to everyone’s surprise as an advisor to Shein within a Social and Environmental Responsibility (CSR) committee, responds to his detractors, including those in the textile industry, the most furious. In an interview with La Tribune Sundaythe former Minister of the Interior denounces “a moralizing effect” and defends a company which “democratizes fashion for all”. “The arguments he uses are the same as those put forward by Donald Tang,” notes Yann Rivoallan, disappointed.
A new life in consulting
Since his defeat in the 2022 legislative electionsin the second constituency of Alpes-de-Haute-Provence, the former figure of Macronie has made his return to the private sector. Before joining the National Assembly in 2017, Christophe Castaner had already held positions in the legal affairs department of BNP Paribas. Now converted to consulting, he founded the company Villanelle Conseil in March 2023. A movement validated by the High Authority for Transparency in Public Life (HATVP).
In addition to Shein, Christophe Castaner is supporting the CCI Lyon Métropole in the reconversion of the former EM Lyon site into a center dedicated to global security. “It’s about mobilizing the players in this sector, which range from technical and scientific police to industry for safety textiles,” he explains to L’Express. In total, he says he works with a dozen clients in the fields of space, crisis management, catering international – catering – or even media training – public speaking.
At the same time, the former elected official has chaired the supervisory board of the port of Marseille Fos since 2022. Last year, his mandate was renewed for a period of five years. A voluntary activity, to which he devotes a lot of time. “Christophe has truly invested himself and taken this role to heart. He is not only there to chair the councils, which take place five times a year. He meets the port stakeholders and gets involved in the local life, by participating in institutional events and by maintaining relations with the mayor”, says the former CEO of Orange, Stéphane Richard, member of the body and who was once Emmanuel Macron’s number 1 choice to take the position after departure of the telecom operator. Finally, Christophe Castaner is also chairman of the board of directors of Autoroutes et Tunnel du Mont Blanc. Function for which he indicated, in 2023, he would receive 3,600 euros per month.
“The worst possible economic model”
If, until now, his new activities in the private sector had not caused much noise, his landing at Shein brings with it its share of questions. The ultra-fast-fashion giant is accused of unfair competition by offering clothing for sale at extremely low prices and contravening all environmental regulations. “This appointment is a real surprise, and not in a good way,” says former minister Yves Jégo, creator of the French Origin Guaranteed (OFG) certification. Shein represents the worst possible economic model, and its expansion is equivalent to a planned death for what remains of French textiles In his explanations, Christophe Castaner hides behind a dubious Trojan horse logic: he affirms that it is better to be on the inside, to influence, rather than to seek to change. this model destructive.” Julia Faure, co-founder of the ethical clothing brand Loom, and co-president of the Impact France Movement, agrees: “No one is fooled. In a period where there is a crisis of confidence in politicians, the symbolism is catastrophic.”
What room for maneuver will the new advisor have? “To develop a sector, public authorities cannot do everything,” assumes Christophe Castaner. “I don’t want to stigmatize anyone, but if the idea is to transform the company from the inside, that implies changing its economic model in depth, namely drastically reducing the size of the collections and slowing down the frantic pace of production, which which seems unlikely”, judges Pierre-François Le Louët, co-president of the French Union of Fashion and Clothing Industries.
Shein expects Christophe Castaner to give a clear opinion on its future directions. She also intends to benefit from his past experience and his ability to sense good ideas for France, for which he will be responsible. The fact remains that in terms of CSR, the CV of the ex-tenant of Beauvau does not tick any box. “He does not have any particular technical expertise. What he brings are his networks, his influence and his ability to navigate the decision-making circuits to promote the interests of his new client,” points out public law professor Jean -François Kerléo, author of Political ethics (Lgdj). Christophe Castaner is not the only one to give in to Chinese sirens. The lawyer Nicole Guedj, former Secretary of State under Jacques Chirac, and Bernard Spitz, who was notably president of the international and Europe division of Medef, complete the committee.
Hard blow for made in France
The message sent to French textiles turns out to be devastating. “We fight every day to mobilize goodwill, because we have fallen very low on the industrial level. And today, we find ourselves with political leaders capable of supporting companies which are inflicting immense damage on our economy” , regrets Gilles Attaf, president of OFG certification. The sector is currently going through a critical phase. “There are only around 10,000 companies left, most of which are simple clothing workshops, manufacturing clothes in France. We don’t feel much supported by the State”, laments Karine Renouil-Tiberghien, manager of the Les Manufactures de layette et knitwear group, in the Loire.
Many of our interlocutors go so far as to use the word “betrayal”. Because Christophe Castaner was part of a government which promoted, with fanfare, a proactive policy of reindustrialization. “We cannot, once we leave the executive, act contrary to what we advocated during our mandate. It’s appalling cynicism,” complains Fabienne Delahaye, the founder and president of the Salon Made in France. In November 2021, on the BFMTV set, the former boss of the LREM group at the National Assembly promoted products made in France, which he presented as a “priority”. “In this fight that we are waging for our sovereignty, we must all be actors: public authorities and consumers!” he said then.
“This affair seems to be based on purely economic logic, devoid of sincere commitment or moral conscience. These personalities may make fine speeches, but their actions sometimes demonstrate an absence of discernment when it comes to choosing between private interests and the general interest”, analyzes Jean-François Kerléo. If he understands the criticisms of Shein, the former boss of Orange has more difficulty with those targeting Christophe Castaner: “When you have been a minister and you do not have a large personal fortune, it is good to be able to chain missions pro bono of general interest, but you also have to, like everyone else, earn your living by working!” says Stéphane Richard.
Advice or lobbying?
The creation of this CSR committee comes at a time when Shein is aiming for an IPO on the London market in the first half of the year. And who says quotation, says transparency. “A strategic window of opportunity for the company as it seeks to raise funds,” notes Pierre-François Le Louët. The operation should allow it to finance its meteoric growth, which seems totally incompatible with virtuous practices. “Their only project is to rely on enormous volumes. Pollution generated by transport and manufacturing is inevitable,” assures Yann Rivoallan, of the FFPPF.
In France, the group is going out of its way to delay the adoption of the law governing the practices of fast fashion. Voted unanimously in March 2024 by the National Assemblyit had to pass through the Senate in an accelerated procedure. But the dissolution, then the censorship of the Barnier government, delayed the deadline. Taken by surprise after the deputies’ vote, the platform dispatched a lobbying company to contact one by one the senators called upon to vote. “I think they underestimated the impact of this text,” confides MP Anne-Cécile Violland (Horizons), at the origin of the bill which provides for the strengthening of the “bonus-malus” system. on textile articles linked to their eco-score and the ban on advertising for textile products fast fashion. A text that Christophe Castaner judges in La Tribune Sunday unsuitable because it will “create a VAT on products deemed too popular”.
“Logically, this law should be supported by someone in charge of improving the company’s CSR policy, observes MP Antoine Vermorel-Marques (Republican Right). If he is there to support sincere development in this area , his arrival could be positive, but if he acts in the opposite direction – which he denies – it will pose a problem. According to the elected official, Shein and its colleagues will not be able to change their practices until the regulatory framework is modified. Anne-Cécile Violland expressed to Christophe Castaner her full confidence in acting with Shein. But the MP for Haute-Savoie does not spare the Asian giant. “During their hearing at the Assembly, their speech seemed superficial, dull and devoid of authenticity. I do not believe in their sincerity and I doubt that they wish to get seriously involved,” she confides. .
Although “retired” from political life, will Christophe Castaner seek to pass a few messages to his former colleagues as the vote in the Senate approaches? “Shein strives to anticipate developments in the French legislative agenda. In crisis situations, companies need people capable of providing them with insight into current political dynamics, even informally. intervene proactively with parliamentarians, he would be required to register on the list of Shein interest representatives with the HATVP”, recalls Guillaume Courty, professor of political science at the University of Picardie Jules Verne and specialist lobbies. For the moment, it is not there. But one thing is certain, his every move will be closely scrutinized in the coming months.
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