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Does lip balm protect us or, on the contrary, does it create dependence and dryness, forcing us to apply more and more? The question was asked to a dermatologist. Here is his response.
With autumn, colder weather and bad weather, our lips gradually become drier, even chapped. Hence the importance of having a moisturizing lip stick on hand, to repair them quickly. But on TikTok, as in our discussions with girls, an idea often comes up: commercial lip balms and sticks tend to dry out our lips a little more, forcing us to reapply more often. An addictive character which is not what was expected. What is it really? The magazine Self asked a board-certified dermatologist.
There is no marketing strategist behind your hit
For Dr. Susan Massick, the answer is not so simple. The tubes of lip balm found on the market are not all perfect, however, the idea that those who design them are trying to make you addicted (to buy more!) is false. “Using lip balm is not a true addiction or chemical dependency.” explains the doctor. “It’s also a myth that using it often will prevent your lips from retaining moisture on their own.”
But some ingredients can be irritating
But while some products can work wonders for treating and preventing flaking and cracking, many of them “also contain ingredients that seem hydrating at first, but are actually irritating in the long run,” continues the dermatologist.
Thus, added perfumes, even based on essential oils, and aromas should be avoided. “These ingredients are not inherently drying, but they are common triggers for people with sensitive skin or prone to allergic reactions”, she said. As a result, they can sometimes leave your lips inflamed, and cause you to enter a vicious cycle: my lips are irritated, I reapply balm, which irritates them.
Other substances like camphor, eucalyptus and menthol, found in some balms that are supposed to refresh your lips, can dry out the skin.
Finally, some balms do not contain any of these irritating substances, but simply do not offer the more hydrating formula for very chapped lips. “Many balms contain humectants like glycerin and thehyaluronic acid which are excellent for attracting water into the skin. However, the problem is that you need something to retain that moisture, otherwise it will evaporate and leave your lips even drier.” explains Dr. Massick.
Wetting your lips is also a mistake
Finally, using a particularly delicious balm with a fruity or minty flavor can accustom you to a bad habit, that of licking your lips. But saliva is not a moisturizer, quite the opposite: not only can the digestive enzymes in your saliva cause irritation, but when your lips are constantly wet – then dry – it can also damage your skin barrier and lead to cracks.
The right tube of lip balm for you
For the dermatologist, it is recommended to opt for ointments (rather than classic balms or glosses) containing occlusives such as petroleum jelly and dimethicone. These thick ingredients will seal the skin to lock in moisture and prevent water loss. Keep in mind, however, that even these dermatologist-approved products may contain potential allergens, depending on how reactive your skin is. This is why it is important to watch for any signs of negative reactions, such as pain, swelling, burning, and itching.
Having to reapply balm every hour or two is also a sign that your product is not very effective on you. According to the expert, you should only have to apply it in the morning after brushing your teeth, and in the evening before bed.
Finally, if you are often outside, it is better to opt for an option with SPF or apply an SPF balm under your other balm. We think less about it, but ““The sun’s rays can absolutely make flaking and cracking worse, the last thing you need during the already drier and colder months.” concludes the dermatologist.
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