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The retinol that is talked about everywhere to beautify the skin has one flaw: it is not very suitable for sensitive skin, which it weakens. Unless you apply it with a very specific method called a “retinol sandwich”. Find out what it consists of.
Women with sensitive skin know it well: trying all the new routines and skin care is tricky for them, as the products applied to their skin can weaken it. This is also the case with retinolwhich despite its great popularity at the moment and its many benefits, can irritate the most reactive skins. Are they condemned to make do with a basic cream? Not necessarily. There is thus a particular and gentler way to benefit from retinol.
Why is retinol not recommended for sensitive skin?
Retinol, the buzzword, has become the go-to term for retinoids, a compound derived from vitamin A, which comes in several forms: the milder retinol, the mid-range retinaldehyde, retinal, and prescription options like retinoic acid, tazarotene, and trifarotene. While all of these different forms of retinoids work at different concentrations, they essentially do the same thing: they help skin shed faster, renewing it, leaving it smoother and brighter.
Depending on the concentration, all skin types can therefore be sensitive to retinoids, “but if you already have sensitive skin, using a retinoid may make that sensitivity worse” warns Dr. Kimberly Jerdan in the magazine Well and Good. Why? Because any kind of barrier or protection that your skin had become accustomed to is now removed, due to this cell renewal ultra-fast. This rapid exfoliation is also why skin tends to be drier and flaky, which can then exacerbate pre-existing sensitive skin issues.
The sandwich method, for a smoother application of retinol
The doctor, however, says the retinol sandwich method may allow those with sensitive skin to use retinol without a reaction. It involves using a moisturizer to create a buffer between the active ingredient and your skin to prevent it from being as irritating. So instead of applying retinol to clean, dry skin like you normally would, a retinol sandwich asks you to ““sandwich” between two layers of moisturizer to reduce its intensity. The dermatologist also suggests using the 1-2-3 method:
- Week 1: Apply your retinol (using the retinol sandwich method) only one night this week;
- Week 2: Apply your retinol sandwich two nights this week;
- Week 3: Apply your retinol sandwich (you guessed it) three nights this week and continue indefinitely.
In addition to providing a protective barrier, moisturizer also makes retinol more tolerable for sensitive skin by “diluting” its potency and can help your skin get used to the ingredient.
What type of moisturizer should I use for the retinol sandwich method?
When choosing your “sandwich” cream, professionals recommend taking the simplest one, the one that suits you best on a daily basis, the goal being to reduce all products containing active ingredients to avoid irritating your skin when combined with retinoids.
Dr. Markhbein, another dermatologist consulted by the outlet, advises looking for creams that contain glycerin (a moisturizing humectant) and dimethicone (a protective silicone) to help hydrate and soothe skin if you’re using a retinoid.
However, to avoid any irritating buildup, they recommend avoiding any other exfoliating product, such as a scrub, when using retinol or any product likely to cause sensitivity, such as benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, or vitamin C. These are not dangerous but should not be used at the same time.
Slideshow: What routine for my sensitive skin?