Jacquemus, Chanel, Dior, Loewe and Sézane… This season, all the biggest brands have succumbed to this 100% French print. It has always been the pride of the Bretons.
You’ve probably noticed that this summer, a new universe with a very recognizable aesthetic is at the top of the trends. After the hegemony of the fruity print, then the global craze for crochet, it’s the entire marine universe that is invited into our wardrobes. Bucket hats are therefore taking the place of caps on the heads of fashionistas while plastic jellyfish are replacing the leather sandals on their feet.
In their latest collections, many French fashion houses have reinvented the sailors’ uniform in their own image. At Jacquemus and Chanel, for example, the tank top has become the main piece of all outfits, while at Sézane and Maison 123, the deck pants have become a real must-have. But it is a very particular print, recognized around the world as an emblem of French fashion, that has been flying off the shelves since the return of the good weather. Adored by sailors, especially Bretons, it is particularly recognizable on jersey tops. Usually composed of blue and white stripes, it is very often worn just under a yellow raincoat and with rain boots. Revisited by the Dior label in the form of a long slit dress proudly worn by actress Laetitia Casta last June, it is obviously the marinière.
This pattern is so linked to France that it was even chosen by the Decathlon brand and the organizing committee of the Paris 2024 Olympic Games to adorn the volunteers’ jerseys. But then, where does the sailor’s sweater really come from? Now a must-have in women’s wardrobes, the sailor’s sweater dates back to the 19th century, when it was an integral part of sailors’ military uniforms. During the Great War, it was Coco Chanel who designed the first short sailor’s sweaters for women.
Having passed through the hands of Karl Lagerfeld and then Yves Saint Laurent, it is with Jean-Paul Gaultier that this piece is truly associated. Among the most famous brands of striped sweaters, we can count Armor Lux, Saint James, Petit Bateau and the Orcival company, which supplies the French Navy.