our selection of biodynamic vintages – L’Express

Since 2019, Gonzague Lurton, the owner of the second classified growth Durfort-Vivens, in Margaux, in the Médoc, has launched a small revolution: abandoning the second wine to produce, instead, a series of three plot cuvées, from clearly terroirs. identified since 2014, and partially raised in amphorae. Le Plateau, the most powerful wine of the three, blends twelve plots located in Soussans and Arsac. This 2020 opens with notes of red plums, cut flowers and small red fruits. The palate is dynamic and opulent, subtly liquorice, the tannins are supple and distinguished. €45.

A precursor of organic and biodynamic agriculture, this estate located near Nantes offers a wide range of wines, each more surprising than the last. This vintage, made from old Burgundy melon grape vines planted on granite, is aged for fifteen months in amphorae, without added sulfur. It exudes notes of citrus, ripe pear, mango, spices and bay leaf. The palate is fresh, fruity, tense, very complex. €35.

Marie and Thierry Germain took over this estate in 1991. Although it is not yet time for the transfer of power, they have now been joined by their children Louis and Jeanne (the latter also vinifies her own micro-cuvées). Initially 12 hectares, the farm has regularly expanded to now reach 28. Le Clos de l’Echelier was acquired in 2012. This 2022 opens with floral notes, fresh red fruits, crushed strawberries, subtly liquorice. The wine is delicious, tense, with very fresh little vegetal notes and a surprisingly iodized finish. €39

Nicolas Grosbois, joined by his brother Sylvain in 2017, installed a complete polyculture ecosystem on the family farm, with 20 hectares of vines, pig breeding, cows and market gardening, all biodynamically. This 60-acre plot is located in the heart of the historic enclosure, planted in 1910. These vines are also used for the estate’s mass selections. The 2018 offers a fresh nose of licorice, red fruits, strawberries and white pepper. The wine is velvety, the tannins structured. €48

Marie and Frédéric Chauffray are among these new winegrowers who have participated in the move upmarket of Languedoc, and in particular of the Terrasses-du-Larzac appellation. The 14 hectares of the estate are planted at altitude, at 400 meters, which allows you to benefit from cool nights and maintain a beautiful balance in the wine. Which we find in this 2020, composed of Grenache and Syrah, supplemented by a little Cinsault, and aged in amphora and concrete. The nose opens with notes of red and black fruits, blueberry and white pepper. The wine is ample, fleshy, delicious, with delicious tannins. €22

When Gérard Bertrand converted Cigalus to biodynamics, it was first and foremost to live in a healthy environment with his wife and children. But, little by little, it became a real project and he converted all of his properties: sixteen for around 1,000 hectares of vines. Who says better ? Cuvée 101 comes from a century-old plot, cultivated in its time by his grandmother Paule. It gives pride of place to Carignan, the emblematic grape variety of Corbières. The nose is of great aromatic complexity, with notes of black fruits and spices. The material is dense, rich but suave, with great length. €46.

The discreet Ferrari family enlisted the advice of the famous winemaker Philippe Pacalet to vinify some of its vintages, including this white made from a blend of Rolle and Sémillon. The juices are partly aged in 600 liter demi-muids, in 2.5 hectoliter vats, in stainless steel vats and in concrete eggs. The wine exudes floral notes, white-fleshed fruits, peach and tangerine. Fresh and balanced, it releases a lemony touch on the finish. €55.

Auxey-duresses premier cru

The two brothers could have been content to take over the family estate of Gevrey-Chambertin, one of the most renowned in Burgundy. But they also wanted to create their own story. So they left for Côte de Beaune to vinify nine wines, including this Auxey-Duresses, a blend of plots from Ecusseaux and Grands Champs. The delicate nose offers beautiful notes of small red fruits, summer flowers and delicate white pepper. The palate is juicy, elegant, long and salivating. €65.

Created in 1985, in Wettolsheim, this estate of excellence converted to biodynamics in 1998. It vinifies four localities and three grands crus including this Steingrubler (stone quarry), where the clay-marl-limestone soil provides great mineral complexity to the wine. This opens with notes of candied fruit, lychee and rose. The palate is chiseled, delicate, tense, with a noble bitterness on the finish. €38.

When Georges Vernay created his estate in 1953, there were only 6 hectares of viognier planted in the world. Seventy years later, his estate, over which his daughter Christine and his granddaughter Emma watch today, extends over all the hillsides of the appellation he saved. And produces the most sought-after condrieu by enthusiasts on the planet. Such as this refined vintage, without exuberance, with rare elegance and purity. Admirable notes of apricot kernels, citrus fruits, almond and white peach.

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