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Daphné Dedieu (ophthalmologist)
In the rain, snow or even in the swimming pool, waterproof mascara does not move and resists all weather conditions. It therefore presents itself as the ideal product in your beauty routine. However, this type of mascara is not as perfect as you think… In fact, it could actually pose risks to your health. An expert explains this to us!
What are the risks of waterproof mascara for the eyes?
According to ophthalmologist Daphné Dedieu, you must first distinguish between the different waterproof mascaras.
Indeed, to obtain the water-resistant character, waterproof mascaras can use components that can belong to two families: perfluoroalkyls and silicones.
PFAS (perfluoroalkyls) which are fluorine derivatives do not actually pose any known risks to the eyes, but rather a risk – although minimal – of systemic passage through the blood capillaries of the skin into the bloodstream. They could also pass through the tear duct. These fluorine derivatives can be harmful and cause fertility problems, increase the risk of cancer and diabetes, cholesterol levels or induce immune or thyroid dysfunction for example.
Some silicones are made from petrochemical derivatives including paraffin. The latter present a risk of accumulation in human tissues and an environmental risk because they accumulate and become toxic to water and aquatic organisms. Certain silicones such as cyclotetrasiloxane have been recognized as endocrine disruptors and toxic to reproduction.
These risks are low, even if not zero, and are more linked to the possibility of systemic passage of these molecules into the blood circulation through the skin.
The importance of gentle makeup removal
“In the same way as a classic mascara, waterproof can cause eye irritation and dryness, especially if makeup is not removed correctly at the end of the day.“, confides the expert.
More resistant, waterproof makeup requires the use of oil-based or two-phase makeup remover to remove all residue on the eyelashes and eyelids. In addition, the silicones used in waterproof formulas are occlusive agents which promote the penetration of other ingredients present in mascaras that are potentially irritating or allergenic to the skin or ocular surface.
Expert Daphné Dedieu emphasizes the importance of gentle makeup removal : “The makeup removal step must be done using a gentle gesture. In certain cases, significant and regular rubbing of the eyes is likely to lead to deformation of the cornea (keratoconus). For effective and gentle makeup removal, it is Recommended to soak a cotton pad with makeup remover and leave it on for a few seconds before gently cleaning the eyelashes.”
Finally, according to the expert, waterproof mascara should be reserved for special occasions to avoid aggressive makeup removal, and to limit irritating and potentially toxic compounds.
Slide: The mascara I need!