Busy season at apple farm operation

It’s peak apple season, and the Howell family of Brantview Apples and Cider is in high gear at their St. George farm.

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Last week alone, nearly half of the more than 20 varieties of apples available at their farm are prime for picking.

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“They all ripen at different times,” said Linda Howell, who operates the farm with partner Jay Howell — a seventh-generation apple farmer — and their three children.

For the months of September and October, the family operates the award-winning farm seven days a week, welcoming school tours, mom and baby groups, and families for apple picking.

Visitors come from nearby cities like Cambridge and Hamilton, eager to collect Cortlands, Galas, Empires, Crimson Crisps and Mutsus.

While customer demand determines the apple varieties the Howells grow, it’s the weather that dictates when they’re ready. Linda Howell said they’ve been fielding calls about the beloved Ambrosia — crisp with a hint of honey — which was expected to be ready by last weekend.

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Apples haven’t always been the main focus of the farm, which was founded more than 200 years ago.

For years, it was a mixed farm — with apples but also dairy and beef cattle, horses, and cash crops — but it was a rough go.

In 1995, the family made the decision to focus solely on apples, “because it’s what we’re good at,” said Jay Howell.

But even within the realm of apples, they’ve managed to continue growing and innovating.

One way is by participating in research. “We have in the past had a lot of varieties given to us to see if we can sustain and grow them, and if they will be liked here in Ontario,” said Linda Howell, adding that researchers are in the process of trying to work out a version of Granny Smith hardy enough to withstand Ontario’s short growing season.

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The Howells also use alternative methods of pest control, like pheromone twist tags for deterring oriental fruit moths, soap to keep away hungry deer, and an integrated pest management system.

“Every week from spring until the beginning of harvest, we have a scout come into the orchard and they count bugs, look for bugs and set traps,” said Linda Howell. This means “we don’t spray unless we have to spray.”

As a result, for the last few decades, the farm’s crop has tested in the bottom five per cent in the province for spray residue — “and that includes organic farms,” she said. “We’re quite proud of that.”

Now, their children — the eighth generation of apple farmers — are also making their mark on the family business.

Melissa Howell plans events in the pavilion designed by Dan Howell, who also handles marketing and creative services. Jen Howell crafts small-batch hard cider on the premises, incorporating unexpected fruits like pineapple, blood orange and peach, which folks are invited to enjoy at picnic tables between the trellises of trees.

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The harvest ends at the close of October, but the work continues through the year for the family. Over the winter, it’s maintaining the trees by hand, pruning and shaping them in what Linda Howell calls “a balance game.” Too many apples growing too close together yields smaller apples. But too many large apples on a smaller tree could cause branch breakage.

In April or May, they replace old trees — they planted 1,400 this season — about one-tenth of their total orchard.

Customers can continue to purchase apples throughout the off-season — kept fresh off-site in Norfolk using a controlled atmosphere — in addition to hard cider, apple cider vinegar, and their specialty apple cider doughnuts as the shop remains open year-round on Saturdays .

With help from friends and relatives, Linda Howell said, “We just keep going and going.”

Celeste Percy-Beauregard is a Local Journalism Initiative reporter based at the Hamilton Spectator. The initiative is funded by the Government of Canada.

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