In the trending flesh-colored wine market, the new International Association of Terroir Rosés (AIRT) proudly brandishes vinous, ruby, scarlet or salmon, possibly woody skittles from 42 estates in France and Italy. Not to fight in vain against the commercial tidal wave of (too?) clear wines, but to turn the phenomenon to its advantage by making “collectible rosé” the ultimate luxury in this pale world. A revenge on the grapefruit-pool wave.
“After twenty years of historic growth, rosé has entered a new phase, with possible diversification into highly valued local wines”, considers the Rhone merchant Philippe Guigal, recently propelled to the presidency of the AIRT thanks to the acquisition of the Aqueria estate, in Tavel, where the association was born, in 2021.
More and more producers are joining the association
The founding estates of the cru, in controlled designation of origin (AOC) since 1936, were quickly joined by producers from Riceys, in Aube, and Bandol, a vineyard on the Var coast, marginalized with their Pinot Noir and Mourvèdre grape varieties. . Then successively followed the Lorraine house Lelièvre, whose Toul gray brings its touch to the palette, the Bordelais Régis Chaigne, craftsman of the revival of claret or the Fournier estate, in Sancerre, which assumes an almost heretical color. As well as winegrowers from Faugères, Luberon and Costières de Nîmes. Since Philippe Guigal’s appeal to the whole world, Spaniards have been knocking on the door – open to cooptation and blind tasting.
The idea seduced these family estates which resisted fashion by tradition, passion or non-conformism. Today, they are convinced of being at the forefront. In Pradet, land of the Côtes-de-Provence, the Clos Cibonne tibouren – a sublime beverage but out of context with its dark orange hue and the year it was aged – was an archaism. He has become an icon. “The terroir rosé is a winegrower’s rosé, not a branded product. It has an imprint, a signature, a history. Those that fall into this category stand out as timeless wines, which assume their singularity”, explains the President of AIRT. At a time when Provence is presented as the new Champagne, he draws a parallel with the bubbles of winegrowers.
These unconventional, colorful and strong-tasting rosés, especially at the table, can be drunk all year round, bursting with aromas (ripe fruit, dried flowers, spices, toasted notes, etc.). Unlike the fleeting and transparent pleasures of summer, these bottles of character become more complex over time, in an oxidative register. They reach their peak between 3 and 10 years, as demonstrated by the old vintages adopted by starred chefs Nicolas Durif and Nobuyuki Akishige, or even Pascal Bardet and his truffle menu on the theme: “Should the tuber melanosporum be ‘rosé’? “.
These niche wines will never make large volumes. But they can seduce a clientele tempted by originality and seduced by the epic story of their authors. Micro-cuvées to rediscover a bit of humanity and spice in the face of thirsty rosés standing at attention?
terroir rosé
© / DR
ROSES OF TERROIRS
1. Mas Gabinèle 2020
Faugeres
In a cru renowned for its powerful garrigue reds (which account for 80% of the appellation), the estate’s rosé created in 1997 by Thierry Rodriguez, a blend of Grenache and Mourvèdre, plays on smoothness and freshness. Uplifting notes of wild strawberry, peony and Sichuan pepper. 12 €
wine merchants
2. Domaine Fournier Father & Son The Beautiful Vines 2022
Sancerre
The Cher appellation is famous for its lively, fresh whites and, to a lesser extent, for its fragrant reds. The rosés (6% of production), tender and subtle, nevertheless occupy a special place. The Pinot Noirs, from which they come, thrive on the Terres Blanches, one of the three terroirs of the cru, clay-limestone with the presence of fossilized shells. The rosé from this esteemed house, in its fuchsia color, exudes raspberry and redcurrant. A delight ! 18 €
Wine merchants and on tresorsdebacchus
3. Clos Cibonne Cuvée des Vignettes 2021
Cotes-de-Provence
A red rag in the pale ocean of Var rosés. Planted in 1955, these old Tibourens aged in casks give generosity and fullness to a warm and expressive wine, with notes of orange, apricot and dried flowers. Keep for a few years to discover all its tannic and aromatic complexity. 32 €
On vinatis.com
4. Domaine Maby Libiamo 2021
tavel
Special feature of this southern cru from the right bank of the Rhône, classified as an AOC since 1936: it produces ONLY rosé, using the ancestral technique of bleeding, which gives it its lively and luminous color. And a ten-year aging potential, like this great Libiamo (black and white Grenache aged in wood), a full-bodied and velvety wine with floral and spicy notes, a tangerine zest and a vegetal touch of dried hay. 22.80€.
wine merchants and domainmaby.fr
5. Maison Lelievre Bishops 2018
Gray of Toul
Gris de Toul, with a salmon color and aromas of small red fruits, is the specialty of the Lorraine Côte-de-Toul appellation, of which it represents 60% of production. This exceptional cuvée from old vines of Gamay and Pinot Noir, on former clergy plots – reputed to be the best -, combines intensity, structure and elegance thanks to fermentation and aging in demi-muids. 18 €
wine merchants and vin-lelievre.com/boutique
AND ALSO
Domaine Alexandre Bonnet The forest
Rose-des-Riceys
“We have been able to keep a Burgundian part in our DNA”, explains Arnaud Fabre, the director of this jewel of the Aube cru, in full rebirth. Exclusively pinot noir, all in fruit, without tannin, it is only vinified in the best years on “superlative” plots selected when the AOC was created in 1947: the sunniest, the most chalky, the steepest… . 25 €
wine merchants